Fuel hose

Grubscrew

Active member
Pro
Hi there.
Been along to VW, and picked up the auxiliary fuel pipe which will go from the spare spigot outlet on the fuel pump housing ( on top of fuel tank).
At £13 it wasn’t expensive.it’s black hard nylon type, and overall diameter is 5mm. One end has the tank connector, and the other end is a reinforced straight bit ( which has a tube stiffener in it) which will ultimately go to inline filter then auxiliary pump to the heater.090B3608-D8C6-4572-9C89-544EB0530228.jpeg


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Looks good and ensures that you have a decent pipe over the top of the tank. I've had the rubber joint at the tank end from a kit supplied with a heater split only after a few months. It's pain then to drop the tank again just to fix that!
 
So I deduce the tank definitely has to be lowered. The other thing is : is there then a pipe already in place which has been factory installed inside the tank that will in turn such the fuel up.?
 
Thats the crucial question !!

I think its highly likely, if its the same as the newer transporters then they seem to have one there ready to connect onto but cant be 100% until you can find someone that has opened one up and can confirm

May be worth checking some of the FB pages and see if anyones has tried already ?
 
Hi Pauly.
Thanks for that. Even the picture I have of a second hand unit doesn’t quite show it…..I don’t have the gall to ask the seller to photograph the unit at a different angle😂😂

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So I deduce the tank definitely has to be lowered. The other thing is : is there then a pipe already in place which has been factory installed inside the tank that will in turn such the fuel up.?
If you connect the new pipe and blow into it you will hear bubbles in the diesel if there is a pipe to the bottom. Sorry, lateral thinking, born of always looking for the easy way out!
 
The fuel tank can be lowered, without removing wires and original fuel pipe.
Undo 6 bolts holding the 3 tank straps but don’t take out yet. Trolly jack under tank using stout ply between tank & jack.
Bear in mind , my tank is 3/4 full of fuel. I tried siphoning….yes I know you can’t, but I had to try. And I was not going to waste fuel by going on a long drive to deplete the diesel for the hell of it.

Undo the cover of the fuel / adblue fillers, and take out each bolt holding diesel neck and adblue neck. Whilst jack is holding tank up, remove all strap bolts and gradually lower tank, KEEP AN EYE ON THE DIESEL FILLER NECK, AS ITLL NEED EASING PAST ADBLUE FILLER.
Lower tank about 6 inches and support it. Access can now be gained to sender , auxiliary supply.
In order to utilise spigot ( red circled previous photo), rather than hacksaw it off and leaving debris in tank, I heated up a small chisel, and sliced off cleanly the outlet .

If you take it off at the place where it becomes 8mm from the tapered bit , there is a pre drilled hole already there.
Use a short bit of wire bend it 90 degrees and poke it in a short way to confirm.
I then attached a bit of pipe, to see if there was from factory, a pipe from the inside of the sender into the tank, blowing into the tank……I hear bubbles👍👍. Saves removal of all the gubbins.

So factory supplied pipe glides nicely over spigot, and I ran that parallel to the existing fuel lines. Incidentally, this new pipe is shaped so it matches contour of tank top.

Anyone thinking of splicing into the existing tank fuel line: DONT. It’s 4 bar!

Tank now replaced, and ready for routing line to heater position….yet to decide.

0CA21835-ECA2-453D-B29A-443D2B2F5732.jpeg

1EA85882-E07F-43FC-BFF9-4FBF3EDB4358.jpeg

05D77522-2C44-4E22-8A53-4CB50D2CDCAC.jpeg
 
The fuel tank can be lowered, without removing wires and original fuel pipe.
Undo 6 bolts holding the 3 tank straps but don’t take out yet. Trolly jack under tank using stout ply between tank & jack.
Bear in mind , my tank is 3/4 full of fuel. I tried siphoning….yes I know you can’t, but I had to try. And I was not going to waste fuel by going on a long drive to deplete the diesel for the hell of it.

Undo the cover of the fuel / adblue fillers, and take out each bolt holding diesel neck and adblue neck. Whilst jack is holding tank up, remove all strap bolts and gradually lower tank, KEEP AN EYE ON THE DIESEL FILLER NECK, AS ITLL NEED EASING PAST ADBLUE FILLER.
Lower tank about 6 inches and support it. Access can now be gained to sender , auxiliary supply.
In order to utilise spigot ( red circled previous photo), rather than hacksaw it off and leaving debris in tank, I heated up a small chisel, and sliced off cleanly the outlet .

If you take it off at the place where it becomes 8mm from the tapered bit , there is a pre drilled hole already there.
Use a short bit of wire bend it 90 degrees and poke it in a short way to confirm.
I then attached a bit of pipe, to see if there was from factory, a pipe from the inside of the sender into the tank, blowing into the tank……I hear bubbles👍👍. Saves removal of all the gubbins.

So factory supplied pipe glides nicely over spigot, and I ran that parallel to the existing fuel lines. Incidentally, this new pipe is shaped so it matches contour of tank top.

Anyone thinking of splicing into the existing tank fuel line: DONT. It’s 4 bar!

Tank now replaced, and ready for routing line to heater position….yet to decide.

View attachment 242

View attachment 243

View attachment 244
Thanks, that's great write-up and I'm glad the suggestion of using the OEM pipe worked out well.
 
Hi, new member. Joined to post this comment.

Just stumbled upon this from a link on the Facebook group. I’m about to do this job and using the original fuel line is a fantastic idea. Does anyone have the part number by any chance?
 
There are two factors, vehicle manufacture date and drive type
Vehicle manufactured before or after 15/03/21
PR Codes
1X0 = Front Wheel Drive
1X1 = Four Wheel Drive
1X2 = Rear Wheel Drive
1X3 = Rear Wheel Drive
1x4 = Drive Layout 4x2 (i assume this also refers to rear wheel drive ?)

Base part number is 7C0201361

7C0201361 = not FWD manufactored before 15 Mar 21
7C0201361B = not FWD manufactured after 15 Mar 21
7C0201361A = FWD manufactured before 15 Mar 21
7C0201361C = FWD manufactured after 15 Mar 21

1674935694562.png
 
Wow. This is mint. So helpful.

I have a Sept (not sure how to check -logbook?) 2021 MWB 4X4.
Edit. I’ll check the product code. Didn’t see that. Thanks.
 
@Pauly Are you on the Facebook group buddy?

I have a question you might be able to answer that has nothing to do with this part. Would I be able to DM you?
 
Wow. This is mint. So helpful.

I have a Sept (not sure how to check -logbook?) 2021 MWB 4X4.
Edit. I’ll check the product code. Didn’t see that. Thanks.

Post your VIN number and i will confirm exact manufacture date (and delete the VIN once ive seen it)

@Pauly Are you on the Facebook group buddy?

I have a question you might be able to answer that has nothing to do with this part. Would I be able to DM you?


Dont use FB that much mate, if you want help with something then just start a new thread on the forum in the relevant section and im sure once of us will be able to assist
 
Post your VIN number and i will confirm exact manufacture date (and delete the VIN once ive seen it)




Dont use FB that much mate, if you want help with something then just start a new thread on the forum in the relevant section and im sure once of us will be able to assist
Same mate I only use it for getting info for my conversion. Will do a new topic.
 
OEM fuel tank diesel connection and tube over tank all on one unit for my TGE was part number 65619630012 and £7.75 + VAT from MAN
 
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