Sliding door mod

[Wbm]

I'm wondering if any of you have considered replacing the sliding side doors with standard ones from the Doka version?



Of course, it requires a lot of bodywork and paint work, but it's not impossible.
A famous TV mechanic did this in his Mercedes-based campervan project.

Removing sliding door Sprinter

What do you think about this modification?

 

[rod_vw]

As a user of a LWB TGE now as a camper the main problem that I see is the height of the doorway. Although having spent many years with Transporters with after market high roofs and obviously standard sliding doors which were of that height we were used to it then.

 

[Lebowski]

My default question: "Which probleem are you solving here?"

As Rod said the height of the side barn door is +-20cm lower than the standard sliding door, the latter making the pass through way easier.

I'd rather have the sliding door, mine will be provided with a closing system from an ambulance later this year, a factory option in Brazil, to silence the closing for stealthyness.

 

[Wbm]

My default question: "Which probleem are you solving here?"

Just a few.
Less noisy during nighttime use.
Less space for heat loss during opening in winter.
No need to access the screws holding the rail.
Easier mechanical securing of normally opening doors than sliding doors.
Possibility of installing wider side pods on both sides.

 

[Lebowski]

Heat loss prevention is a good reason, the longer side pods are already available btw, see Julia Camper from Spain.

Why would you need access to the rail nuts? Once affixed it stays there. Mine will be replaced as it's rusting, a colour coded rail will be mounted to dechrome the vehicle.

Locks are definitely a thing.

So you gain a bit and get to hit your head every time you pass through the door...

 

[airhoguk]

To be honest we have an IH Motorhome which is a LWB crafter that they call N class as the sliding door has been replaced with a panel and a caravan door inset. Looking at it I much prefer the factory option that @Wbm shows above

 

[Lebowski]

Wow!

Second wow at gas powered fridge.

 

[Guy]

@Lebowski - if not a gas powered fridge are people powering off the batteries? I know little to nothing on electrics and am looking right now, literally, but my understanding is a fridge uses a huge amount of power meaning you generally needs mains hookup.

I am thinking of a gas fridge (as the main power source) with 240 and 12v options simply because I understand a fridge draws alot of power.

Interested to know thoughts

 

[Lebowski]

If you can wait a little I have really interesting reads for you, it's in my Dutch thread. See my introduction on this forum for the link and head towards power replenishment.


Here it is: click to chapter 3, 6, 9, 22, 29

https://camperforum.nl/viewtopic.php?p=2359158#p2359158

 

[rod_vw]

@Lebowski - if not a gas powered fridge are people powering off the batteries? I know little to nothing on electrics and am looking right now, literally, but my understanding is a fridge uses a huge amount of power meaning you generally needs mains hookup.

I am thinking of a gas fridge (as the main power source) with 240 and 12v options simply because I understand a fridge draws alot of power.

Interested to know thoughts

Our Waeco Dometic CRX80 fridge is rated at 5.6A (at 12v) but I've just checked and in an indoor ambient temperature of 30+ degrees it is drawing less than 4A to maintain more than adequate cooling (some items get frozen at the back of the fridge). Also remember that current draw is only on thermostat demand which even in these temperatures is by no means continuous.
Our last van to have a gas fridge was back in 2004 since then (five vans later) they have all been compressor varieties. The decision to change initially was a decree that I was NOT cutting big holes in the side of a new van!

It's only this larger van (LWB TGE) that has had a Lithium battery (230Ah), prior to that they have all worked perfectly with about 200Ah (100Ah useful) of lead acid batteries.

I would never go back to an absorption fridge now.

Rod

 

[Guy]

Our Waeco Dometic CRX80 fridge is rated at 5.6A (at 12v) but I've just checked and in an indoor ambient temperature of 30+ degrees it is drawing less than 4A to maintain more than adequate cooling (some items get frozen at the back of the fridge). Also remember that current draw is only on thermostat demand which even in these temperatures is by no means continuous.
Our last van to have a gas fridge was back in 2004 since then (five vans later) they have all been compressor varieties. The decision to change initially was a decree that I was NOT cutting big holes in the side of a new van!

It's only this larger van (LWB TGE) that has had a Lithium battery (230Ah), prior to that they have all worked perfectly with about 200Ah (100Ah useful) of lead acid batteries.

I would never go back to an absorption fridge now.

Rod

That is really helpful @rod_vw thankyou.

I have had a chat with Rayne Automotive and they have specified a system based on my requirements and had a follow up chat and they have been great and very helpful. When spending X thousand £'s on a system I like to have atleast some understanding and I think I do. Your input however is very helpful. If the compressor was continuously drawing 4A (which it wouldn't as it is insulated) this would be 96A a day, I assume you would draw half as a maximum and we have spec'd a 360Ah lithium battery, I also appreciate it is about replenishing that power too.

Your note about the last gas fridge being in 2004 and historically only having a 200Ah lead battery also leads me to think we will be OK.

Thanks once again

 

[Lebowski]

My TGE L4H3 has a small Vitrifrigo fridge atm and it, together with the LED lights and MaxxFan Deluxe uses 900Wh daily which is around 70Ah.

Read through my replenishment chapters to find out which fuel is best suited for your use case.

 

[Lebowski]

My battery is at 99% and the consumers are drawing 86W from the solar system.

0,9kWh generated up till now (15:17, in Gränna, Swedish local time). Today is a bit different, the 400cm long LED strip has been switched on for hours on cold white (51W), the rest is the fridge and the MaxxFan Deluxe.

My system can generate 3,5 to 4kWh per day in the summer in The Netherlands without any trouble, I just need to fit a surplus power divertor to heat the sanitary water once I have that system aboard. Then I'll have free hot water too.

 

[airhoguk]

We did have a dometic 3 way fridge but that’s now been replaced with a Vitrifrigo C85i. 3 way fridges the 12 volt only works when your driving as you can’t use the gas (could use mains if you had suitable batteries and inverter I guess). Next job is to insulate behind where the fridge was because IH don’t insulate there vans at all!!!!

 

[Lebowski]

I believe Rod and myself are on the same page on fuel choices for fridges and heaters, natural gas is just inconvenient as you need a separate system that weighs a lot and you need a reseller.

Move over to electric and you've become self sustaining overnight.

In my van I doubt to put an EHU in as I just don't need it

 

[rod_vw]

I believe Rod and myself are on the same page on fuel choices for fridges and heaters, natural gas is just inconvenient as you need a separate system that weighs a lot and you need a reseller.

Move over to electric and you've become self sustaining overnight.

In my van I doubt to put an EHU in as I just don't need it

And you @Lebowski know exactly why I'm hooked up at present but that's a very different story! FYI, Off home to the UK on Tuesday.

@Guy remember the current consumption figure that I quoted is that of a heatwave day on an Aire in Eastern France when the indoor ambient is just over 30 degrees. Most average UK (and often Europe) temperatures will be well below that so consumption will be less.

Rod

I've PMd you by the way.

 

[Lebowski]

I know why you're hooked Rod!

It's a good reason to know more about the electrical system and to be able to fix without supplier.