Noise under bonnet when engine off

[3655phil]

Hi all,
recently picked up my crafter after a two year build wait and when I unlock the van I get a strange noise from under the bonnet(video attached).
I assume it’s a fuel pressure relay or similar preparing the engine to start?

My issue is that when sat outside the unlocked van with the keys out of the ignition the noise continues every three minutes or so until it’s locked again. This went on for three days recently whilst camping in France
Has anyone else come across this issue is it normal?
I have booked it into VW next week for them to have a look but was interested should anyone else have the same issue. The van is only a couple of months old
thanks Phil

 

[TonyL]

Hi Phil

I can’t see a video.

However, my van, a 2022 TGE, makes quite a few whirring and click noises when I unlock the van. IIRC my last van, a 2020 TGE did the same.

However, I haven’t noticed it continuing on like you describe.

 

[3655phil]

Sorry I don’t believe you can add a video or at least I wasn’t able to- I just got back from VW who stated the whirring was the fuel pressure rail and the clunking was the turbo actuator- both are triggered by the key as you approach the vehicle so it’s in a state of readiness when you go to start.
They stated that this will continue whilst the van is unlocked and the key is within range!
My thoughts are to get a faraday key pouch to use whilst sat outside the camper.
They were very helpful and did a complete check with no codes or errors found.
Hope this may assist someone going forwards

 

[TonyL]

That’s interesting. I assume your van has keyless ignition?

 

[3655phil]

No it’s not keyless entry etc
I will report back once I get the faraday pouch and let you know if it makes a difference- I wasn’t going to post this as once you hear the noise you find yourself listening out for it

 

[TonyL]

Haha, I’ll be listening out for it now.

 

[TonyL]

I have been out to the van and this is what it does;

Approaching the van - does nothing.

1. Unlock - whirring and clicking

2. 3 minutes later (with key by drivers door) - further whirring noise.

3. Approx 6 minutes - a clunk as though something has shut off.

I waited for another 5 minutes and heard nothing.

So, my van is a Westfalia Sven Hedin and I am wondering if something has been reconfigured as the van was supplied by MAN to Westfalia specifically for a camper van?

If I get chance I will try for longer, but seems something may have been changed.

 

[3655phil]

Ok update time:-
Today I bought a £6 faraday pouch from Halfords and I am very pleased to report that after initially opening the van the repeat whirring and clunking has stopped. Thankfully No more noise!
I hope this assists anyone searching the fault

 

[Grubscrew]

That whole saga seems a bit odd……..
Just thinking about it a bit more detail, is there any way that there is some tiny voltage on permanent, that shouldn’t be within the key fob itself. It’s clearly coming from the fob when within range.
You shouldn’t have to use the pouch.
Just puzzled that’s all.

 

[Jacob88]

My name is Jacob, I have already experienced a similar situation during my travels. My vehicle had a problem along the way, but luckily there was a garage nearby. So I took it there, and after identifying the problem, the mechanics recommended I use a Traitement Superéthanol. I followed their advice and applied the product, however, I was not completely satisfied as the situation was not resolved yet.

I'm wondering if there is anyone who can help me to solve this problem or simply suggesting me.

Thanks in adavnce for your help.

 

[Tor]

Mine does that, it also does it if you open a door. I tried to find where it comes from and think it's the egr valve.

 

[rod_vw]

Lots of modules power up when you unlock or open a door in readiness to start and drive. That's why the battery soon flattens when working on the van without starting it. Many of us for a Battery Master or Ablemail AMT12-2 to keep the engine battery charged from a leisure system which has solar charging.

 

[Tor]

Exactly the device I fitted after having my battery expire after leaving her for 22 days at the dealership for haldex issues.

The van will go into transport mode when the battery volts drop to save power but can not cater for my dash cam, router, and, a number of other devices I had at that time on the main battery.

I went for the amt 12-2 as unlike some others I was looking at it's programmable.

 

[Kit Rigg]

Lots of modules power up when you unlock or open a door in readiness to start and drive. That's why the battery soon flattens when working on the van without starting it. Many of us for a Battery Master or Ablemail AMT12-2 to keep the engine battery charged from a leisure system which has solar charging.

I fitted a new starter battery a couple of months ago, thinking that it was faulty. The new battery flattens as well. Someone suggested fitting an isolator switch ; but would this not cut power to security locks etc?
This Battery master sounds a much better systm. Is it easy to fit and where would you locate the unit?
I do have my doors open for extended periods when working on the van

 

[rod_vw]

I fitted a new starter battery a couple of months ago, thinking that it was faulty. The new battery flattens as well. Someone suggested fitting an isolator switch ; but would this not cut power to security locks etc?
This Battery master sounds a much better systm. Is it easy to fit and where would you locate the unit?
I do have my doors open for extended periods when working on the van

The AMT12-2 requires a wire from each battery +ve and one to chassis ground (-ve). Here is the diagram that comes with one of those. Although that diagram doesn't show fuses you should install them in the circuitry.

 

[Tor]

I'm with rod_vw, it's easy to fit and as I said before unlike others it's programmable to provide both high or low current charge and for a couple of cut oin/out voltages.

As for where to fit it, mine sits happily under the fusebox cover (only removed to take the picture) being a single seat I was pushed for space given what I fitted in, a normal double seat would be a breeze.

 

[rod_vw]

I'm with rod_vw, it's easy to fit and as I said before unlike others it's programmable to provide both high or low current charge and for a couple of cut oin/out voltages.

As for where to fit it, mine sits happily under the fusebox cover (only removed to take the picture) being a single seat I was pushed for space given what I fitted in, a normal double seat would be a breeze.

View attachment 1179

Wow, you've squeezed some kit into a very tight space with some neat wiring too.

Are those high current breakers from a reliable source? I am aware that there are a lot of very dubious ones out there.

 

[Tor]

Thank you but trust me if you take the cover off the rear fuseboard it's not so neat.

Before retiring at 50 due to a brain injury I worked in electronics so wiring is to some degree my thing.

Yes they are expensive ones and I tested each prior to fitting to make sure they were not going to catch fire (while rated at 100A on a dead short will trip between 60-65A, if the current is slowly raised they don't trip till almost 120A is flowing) however, their real purpose is not as breakers but isolators (the Renogy is internally fused) I fitted these just because I was short on space) attached is the rear fuse board. Bar a couple of low power items every 12V and 19V outlet in my van has a seperatley fused cable to it.

I must point out that when using breakers for DC you must not use AC breakers, these will 8 out of 10 times catch fire when they trip as they work differently.

 

[rod_vw]

Thank you but trust me if you take the cover off the rear fuseboard it's not so neat.

Before retiring at 50 due to a brain injury I worked in electronics so wiring is to some degree my thing.

Yes they are expensive ones and I tested each prior to fitting to make sure they were not going to catch fire (while rated at 100A on a dead short will trip between 60-65A, if the current is slowly raised they don't trip till almost 120A is flowing) however, their real purpose is not as breakers but isolators (the Renogy is internally fused) I fitted these just because I was short on space) attached is the rear fuse board. Bar a couple of low power items every 12V and 19V outlet in my van has a seperatley fused cable to it.

I must point out that when using breakers for DC you must not use AC breakers, these will 8 out of 10 times catch fire when they trip as they work differently.

View attachment 1181

View attachment 1180

Ah you and I are from a similar background. I worked for the GPO / Telecom / BT in its various incarnations from 1965 to 2004 then to 2022 doing data and fibre optic installations in a very small business. My first twelve years with GPO was exchange construction then moved to major customer voice systems installation and commissioning.

My TGE was built by a friend as age and to some degree health dissuaded me from doing this one although I have converted five transporters since I left BT all on new base vehicles. The 12v distribution in the TGE has been modified by me to provide better access to the fusing as like you all circuits are individually fused my controls are 'old school' analogue switches. Much less to fix in the event of a failure especially if that occurred when roaming Europe!