Looking for help from a great Crafter mechanic

[Arvi&UsOverland]

Hi All. I'm new to the forum here so great to meet you all and hope I've come to the right place for some help.

I own a converted Crafter van and due to set out on a big Overland trip through Europe. I want to make sure I'm prepared to maintain the vehicle on the road and looking to get in touch with a mechanic who specialises in Crafters to walk me through key things to do / watch out for to make sure I keep the vehicle well maintained on the trip. I'm based in Hampshire, so closer to that area better, but open to travel to find the right person. Does anyone have any recommendations or know anyone who might be able to help with this request. Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[Raul a/3]

I look after my own crafter to. I have a vcds scanner, I can run basic procedures and look for codes. Problems I had in the past: egr cooler leak, needs a good new gasket, or cooler replacement, or both. The dpf collapsed after this fault going undetected for some time. I changed mine in Germany, after buying it from vw there.
Another fault I had was add blue pump, make sure you have the add blue tank guard in place. Mine was missing, and the cabling and pump head exposed to road debris. Also be careful on add blue quantities top up. Add only what the dash info says, not over or under, it will mess up the reading and trigger no start count down.
Make sure it had the recalls done, including software, monitor oil to be within markings, to much will trigger dash warning. I had to correct mine twice after vw garage service, I do my own now.
Spare wheel, if you have a puncture, it will be a pitta to get the wheel out from underneath. I have mine on a carrier on the back door.
If you are close to 60k miles do the cam belt before the trip, I had mine done in Germany, and the original was pretty bad at just under 60k miles. While you are at it, upgrade the water pump, the original has a very anaemic impeller, a upgraded one will provide a much better flow.
All general wear and tear, pads discs etc., I found parts are cheaper in UK, except dpf, egr cooler.

 

[rod_vw]

I look after my own crafter to. I have a vcds scanner, I can run basic procedures and look for codes. Problems I had in the past: egr cooler leak, needs a good new gasket, or cooler replacement, or both. The dpf collapsed after this fault going undetected for some time. I changed mine in Germany, after buying it from vw there.
Another fault I had was add blue pump, make sure you have the add blue tank guard in place. Mine was missing, and the cabling and pump head exposed to road debris. Also be careful on add blue quantities top up. Add only what the dash info says, not over or under, it will mess up the reading and trigger no start count down.
Make sure it had the recalls done, including software, monitor oil to be within markings, to much will trigger dash warning. I had to correct mine twice after vw garage service, I do my own now.
Spare wheel, if you have a puncture, it will be a pitta to get the wheel out from underneath. I have mine on a carrier on the back door.
If you are close to 60k miles do the cam belt before the trip, I had mine done in Germany, and the original was pretty bad at just under 60k miles. While you are at it, upgrade the water pump, the original has a very anaemic impeller, a upgraded one will provide a much better flow.
All general wear and tear, pads discs etc., I found parts are cheaper in UK, except dpf, egr cooler.

Thanks @Raul a/3 , is the uprated water pump a VW / MAN item or after market? If it's VW do you have a part number please.

On the subject of part numbers, I've discovered that my MAN dealer can cross reference from VW numbers to MAN ones. Perhaps they all can, I don't know.

 

[Arvi&UsOverland]

Thanks @Raul a/3 - really appreciate the info and the watch out parts. Will take all this on board as additional checks before departure.

 

[Raul a/3]

Thanks @Raul a/3 , is the uprated water pump a VW / MAN item or after market? If it's VW do you have a part number please.

On the subject of part numbers, I've discovered that my MAN dealer can cross reference from VW numbers to MAN ones. Perhaps they all can, I don't know.

I dont have a part number unfortunately, I took mine in the German shop in Duisburg, they searched by vin number and came up with a pump exactly like original, but larger impeller. I noticed that and been told that vw lists this as a upgrade part to the original. Also the vw original impeller its plastic, the upgraded one its aluminium.

 

[MSMITH]

I look after my own crafter to. I have a vcds scanner, I can run basic procedures and look for codes. Problems I had in the past: egr cooler leak, needs a good new gasket, or cooler replacement, or both. The dpf collapsed after this fault going undetected for some time. I changed mine in Germany, after buying it from vw there.
Another fault I had was add blue pump, make sure you have the add blue tank guard in place. Mine was missing, and the cabling and pump head exposed to road debris. Also be careful on add blue quantities top up. Add only what the dash info says, not over or under, it will mess up the reading and trigger no start count down.
Make sure it had the recalls done, including software, monitor oil to be within markings, to much will trigger dash warning. I had to correct mine twice after vw garage service, I do my own now.
Spare wheel, if you have a puncture, it will be a pitta to get the wheel out from underneath. I have mine on a carrier on the back door.
If you are close to 60k miles do the cam belt before the trip, I had mine done in Germany, and the original was pretty bad at just under 60k miles. While you are at it, upgrade the water pump, the original has a very anaemic impeller, a upgraded one will provide a much better flow.
All general wear and tear, pads discs etc., I found parts are cheaper in UK, except dpf, egr cooler.

Hi , I've got a converted vw Crafter camper that has a leak that only is known when I turn engine off and then a steady drip for a few seconds of the support bars , in the middle at the back of engine , I'm not sure where it is , not obvious as engine has no problems , no lights on dash . I put my finger in the pool of liquid, I'm not sure if diesel or oil, it looks too clear for oil, and I don't have air con on the van. Coolant levels are fine too. I've just had a new recog engine and electrics all done. I want to travel overseas in the summer but I'm a bit worried if this is just a build up of a bigger problem if I don't get to solve it ! Thanks Mark

 

[Raul a/3]

Hi , I've got a converted vw Crafter camper that has a leak that only is known when I turn engine off and then a steady drip for a few seconds of the support bars , in the middle at the back of engine , I'm not sure where it is , not obvious as engine has no problems , no lights on dash . I put my finger in the pool of liquid, I'm not sure if diesel or oil, it looks too clear for oil, and I don't have air con on the van. Coolant levels are fine too. I've just had a new recog engine and electrics all done. I want to travel overseas in the summer but I'm a bit worried if this is just a build up of a bigger problem if I don't get to solve it ! Thanks Mark

Dry the area, and try pus some paper towels in there. Even some powder to pick any wet. Monitor after a drive, check, and monitor again after a rain. Eliminate the possibility of scuttle leak before you suspect the egr cooler or other parts. The intercooler is water cooled as well,
Another test is, after a drive and coolant completely cooled down, when you undo the bottle cap slow, watch for any coolant from system returning in the bottle with a hiss. If this happens is not good. Should be no vacuum when cold. I used to get this on cold engine in the morning. Turned out the egr cooler was leaking only when hot, and when cooled down would seal the leak again creating a vacuum in the system.

 

[MSMITH]

Dry the area, and try pus some paper towels in there. Even some powder to pick any wet. Monitor after a drive, check, and monitor again after a rain. Eliminate the possibility of scuttle leak before you suspect the egr cooler or other parts. The intercooler is water cooled as well,
Another test is, after a drive and coolant completely cooled down, when you undo the bottle cap slow, watch for any coolant from system returning in the bottle with a hiss. If this happens is not good. Should be no vacuum when cold. I used to get this on cold engine in the morning. Turned out the egr cooler was leaking only when hot, and when cooled down would seal the leak again creating a vacuum in the system.

Thanks I will give that a go Raul , it does follow the example you gave , where the leak doesn't continue when engine off, which suggests it is creating a seal and vacuum when cooled down.

 

[Ken Watt]

New member too, off soon to Scandinavia, last two years in a T4 5000 mile round trip, looking forward to putting the Crafter through it and see the difference.
A double bed!! Oh my word I can’t wait.

 

[Raul a/3]

New member too, off soon to Scandinavia, last two years in a T4 5000 mile round trip, looking forward to putting the Crafter through it and see the difference.
A double bed!! Oh my word I can’t wait.

Enjoy, and let us know how you dealt with the tolls. One day I will be driving up, and return through the Baltics.

 

[Ken Watt]

Tolls or trolls?
There’s not too many from memory not like France….